TORSION BARS / REAR SPRINGS

Torsion Bars
The Mopar performance catalog offers a slew of torsion bars from /6 types up to super stiff autocross racing style. Being that I needed a fairly stiff bar for my car as I have it set a bit low and wanted good handling I bought the 383 (.890) PN# P5249150 bar. I bought them from Koller Dodge for $119.00 a pair along with a new bar boot seal kit while I was at it. I don't know how some of the aftermarket companies have the gall to charge up to $229.00 for these low tech bars of steel when you can get genuine OEM for so much less…probably since they are gold anodized and look pretty.
When you install the bars in your vehicle make sure the even numbered bar with the "R" casted in it after the number (not always the case) is on the passenger side of the vehicle and the odd numbered bar with the "L" is on the drivers side. Sometimes there are two paint splotches, two splotches for left and one for right. You also have to have the paint marks and numbers torward the rear.

Rear Springs
SS Springs. Forget them unless you drag race since that's what they are intended for. Too stiff and your car sits too high. After shopping around for rear springs (Paddock, Year One, Chrysler) I bought a nice pair from ESPO springs and things (www.espo.com). I have heard good things about this company before I placed my order and all is true as I am completely happy with my Heavy Duty 6 leaf sets. Price was $150.00 for them and $125.00 for the 5 leaf standard duty version. While I was at it I also picked up some of their urethane shackle bushings and upper / lower control arm bumpers for an additional $50.00.

FRONT END REBUILD

The best website for suspension and handling data is Steve over at the AUTOCROSSER site. Much of what I initially gathered about tire / wheel sizes and disk brake swaps I ran by him for his opinion. Get lots of sleep and then read his site….the physics section of handling will make your brain hurt.
I suggest you read his upper A arm modification whereas you can upgrade your A body handling by installing Moog 7103 offset upper control arm bushings for increased caster. The reason for this is due to the advances in modern tire design and stiffer radials. The suspension was designed for loose bias ply tires not modern radials
If you must rebuilt your suspension I would suggest doing this modification while you are at it.

My suspension was pretty shot before I rebuilt it except that my tie rods and pitman arm were in excellent shape having been replaced by the previous owner. I am currently running rubber bushings since it is a street car but I should have coughed up the additional cash for the Moog parts. Total cost for all parts was $114.00 (lifetime warranty) at Autozone (upper and lower American made McQuade ball joints and for some reason their bushings said Mexico. Uh oh…. But they looked first class…after all Mercedes Benz, Chevy, Ford and VW are building cars in Mexico so how bad could they be for such a low tech item? Unfortunately I rebuilt the suspension before I read Autocrossers site with his suggestion to run the Moog offset camber bushings. I'm sure I will do it in the future as I have heard good things about this modification from others who have tried it.

ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS

Caster

+ 1/2 - 3/4 minimum
+1 - 1.5 better

Camber

+1/2 - 3/4 minimum
1.25 Ideal
Hard core 2 - 2.5

Toe 1/16

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